Retinyl Propionate

INCI: RETINYL PROPIONATE

CAS Number
7069-42-3
Function
Skin-conditioning agent; retinol ester pro-vitamin A active; promotes collagen synthesis and cell turnover via retinol/retinoic acid conversion pathway
Safety Rating
GOOD

Regulatory Status

🇪🇺 EU Status restricted
EU Max Conc. 0.3% RE for leave-on and rinse-off face products; 0.05% RE for body lotions (Regulation EU 2024/996)
🇺🇸 US Status permitted
US Notes No FDA concentration limits for topical cosmetic use. Classified as cosmetic ingredient when no drug claims made. No dedicated CIR safety report identified. Clinical data showing superior wrinkle reduction vs tretinoin with niacinamide combination and markedly better tolerability noted in 2025 evidence. No mandatory pregnancy labelling under US law, though retinoid class teratogenicity considerations apply to professional guidance.

For full compliance data across 55 jurisdictions, use the Substance Compliance tool.

Safety Data

Margin of Safety (MoS)
adequate
Dermal Absorption
moderate
Sensitization
low

Calculate MoS for your specific formulation with the MoS Calculator.

Expert Verdict

Emerging retinoid ester with notable 2025 clinical data showing retinyl propionate formulated with niacinamide demonstrated greater wrinkle reduction than prescription tretinoin with significantly superior tolerability. Mechanism is standard ester hydrolysis to retinol then oxidative conversion to retinoic acid. EU-restricted under 2024/996 with RE concentration limits; teratogenicity class risk mandates pregnancy warning in EU formulations. PM use and SPF daytime use required. Encapsulation recommended for stability. Strong candidate for next-generation retinoid formulations seeking tretinoin-level efficacy with improved tolerability.

⚠️
Concern Level: Low

Regulatory Flags

retinoid retinol-ester eu-restricted pregnancy-warning pm-only teratogen-risk niacinamide-synergy superior-tolerability-vs-tretinoin emerging-clinical-data encapsulation-recommended

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Retinyl Propionate safe in cosmetics?

Emerging retinoid ester with notable 2025 clinical data showing retinyl propionate formulated with niacinamide demonstrated greater wrinkle reduction than prescription tretinoin with significantly superior tolerability. Mechanism is standard ester hydrolysis to retinol then oxidative conversion to retinoic acid. EU-restricted under 2024/996 with RE concentration limits; teratogenicity class risk mandates pregnancy warning in EU formulations. PM use and SPF daytime use required. Encapsulation recommended for stability. Strong candidate for next-generation retinoid formulations seeking tretinoin-level efficacy with improved tolerability. The EU classifies Retinyl Propionate as "restricted". Safety rating: GOOD.

Is Retinyl Propionate allowed in the EU?

Retinyl Propionate EU regulatory status: restricted. Maximum allowed concentration: 0.3% RE for leave-on and rinse-off face products; 0.05% RE for body lotions (Regulation EU 2024/996). This is based on EU Regulation 1223/2009 and its amendments.

What does Retinyl Propionate do in cosmetics?

Retinyl Propionate functions as: Skin-conditioning agent; retinol ester pro-vitamin A active; promotes collagen synthesis and cell turnover via retinol/retinoic acid conversion pathway. It is classified as a Active Ingredient in our database. CAS number: 7069-42-3.

What is the Margin of Safety for Retinyl Propionate?

adequate The Margin of Safety (MoS) is calculated using SCCS methodology. A MoS above 100 is generally considered safe. Use the MoS Calculator tool to calculate MoS for your specific formulation and product category.

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