Good Active Ingredient Dermal Penetration

Retinyl Retinoate

INCI: RETINYL RETINOATE

CAS Number
15498-86-9
Function
Hybrid vitamin A derivative combining retinol and retinoic acid moieties in a single ester; promotes wrinkle reduction and skin renewal
Safety Rating
GOOD

Regulatory Status

๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ EU Status permitted
๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ US Status permitted
US Notes No FDA restriction; marketed as a cosmetic active

For full compliance data across 55 jurisdictions, use the Substance Compliance tool.

Safety Data

Margin of Safety (MoS)
adequate
Dermal Absorption
moderate
Sensitization
low

Calculate MoS for your specific formulation with the MoS Calculator.

Dermal Penetration Profile

Skin absorption and penetration characteristics of Retinyl Retinoate, relevant to systemic exposure and MoS calculations.

Absorption %
2-5%
Penetration Level
stratum-corneum
Penetration Depth
stratum corneum/epidermis
Molecular Weight
568.9 Da
Log P
14.2
Systemic Absorption
minimal
Topical Bioavailability
1-3%
Safety Margin Factor
low
Vehicle Dependent
Yes โ€” absorption varies by formulation

Source: J Cosmet Dermatol 2017

Expert Verdict

Novel hybrid retinoid with promising small-scale RCT data showing 0.06% retinyl retinoate cream outperformed 0.075% retinol cream for wrinkle depth, wrinkle area, and visual improvement with maximum roughness improvement 22% higher than retinol after 12 weeks. Designed to combine photostability of retinyl esters with retinoid receptor activity. Evidence base is limited to one small RCT (n=11), which constrains confidence. Not currently subject to EU vitamin A Annex III caps.

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Concern Level: Low

Regulatory Flags

retinoid hybrid-molecule next-generation not-eu-restricted small-rct-only promising

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Retinyl Retinoate safe in cosmetics?

Novel hybrid retinoid with promising small-scale RCT data showing 0.06% retinyl retinoate cream outperformed 0.075% retinol cream for wrinkle depth, wrinkle area, and visual improvement with maximum roughness improvement 22% higher than retinol after 12 weeks. Designed to combine photostability of retinyl esters with retinoid receptor activity. Evidence base is limited to one small RCT (n=11), which constrains confidence. Not currently subject to EU vitamin A Annex III caps. The EU classifies Retinyl Retinoate as "permitted". Safety rating: GOOD.

Is Retinyl Retinoate allowed in the EU?

Retinyl Retinoate EU regulatory status: permitted. This is based on EU Regulation 1223/2009 and its amendments.

What does Retinyl Retinoate do in cosmetics?

Retinyl Retinoate functions as: Hybrid vitamin A derivative combining retinol and retinoic acid moieties in a single ester; promotes wrinkle reduction and skin renewal. It is classified as a Active Ingredient in our database. CAS number: 15498-86-9.

What is the Margin of Safety for Retinyl Retinoate?

adequate The Margin of Safety (MoS) is calculated using SCCS methodology. A MoS above 100 is generally considered safe. Use the MoS Calculator tool to calculate MoS for your specific formulation and product category.

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