Good Emulsifier NOAEL Data Dermal Penetration

Polysorbate 20

INCI: POLYSORBATE 20

CAS Number
9005-64-5
Function
Solubilizer; emulsifier; surfactant; cleansing agent
Safety Rating
GOOD

Regulatory Status

๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ EU Status permitted
EU Max Conc. 1,4-dioxane process impurity โ‰ค10 ppm per EU GMP guidance
๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ US Status permitted
US Notes CIR assessed safe as used in cosmetics. Ethoxylated sorbitan ester with 1,4-dioxane risk from manufacturing process; GMP vacuum stripping controls residuals to <10 ppm. Key ingredient in micellar water formulations (e.g., Bioderma Sensibio). HLB 16.7 makes it one of the most hydrophilic polysorbates, primarily a solubilizer for fragrance, essential oils, and light makeup removal.

For full compliance data across 55 jurisdictions, use the Substance Compliance tool.

Safety Data

Margin of Safety (MoS)
adequate
Dermal Absorption
high
Sensitization
low

Calculate MoS for your specific formulation with the MoS Calculator.

Toxicological Studies

9 study endpoints found for Polysorbate 20. NOAEL (No Observed Adverse Effect Level) values are used to calculate the Margin of Safety per SCCS methodology.

Endpoint Value Route Species Study Type Source
NOAEL 25000 mg/kg bw/day oral rat Subchronic COSMOS_DB
NOAEL 3000 mg/kg bw/day oral hamster Chronic COSMOS_DB
NOAEL 25000 mg/kg bw/day oral rat Short Term Toxicity COSMOS_DB
NOAEL 6000 mg/kg bw/day oral hamster Short Term Toxicity COSMOS_DB
NOAEL >=1000 mg/kg bw/day oral rat oral REACH
NOAEL >=2 other oral rat oral REACH
NOAEL >=2 other oral rat oral REACH
NOAEL >=2 other oral rat oral REACH
NOAEL >=2 other oral rat oral REACH

Dermal Penetration Profile

Skin absorption and penetration characteristics of Polysorbate 20, relevant to systemic exposure and MoS calculations.

Absorption %
1-3%
Penetration Level
surface
Penetration Depth
stratum corneum
Molecular Weight
1228 Da
Log P
0.5
Systemic Absorption
minimal
Topical Bioavailability
0.5-2%
Safety Margin Factor
low
Vehicle Dependent
Yes โ€” absorption varies by formulation

Source: CIR

Expert Verdict

Highly hydrophilic nonionic emulsifier and solubilizer (HLB 16.7) confirmed safe as used by CIR. Core ingredient in micellar waters with effective cleansing at very low concentrations (CMC 0.05โ€“0.1 mM). Ethoxylated compound requiring manufacturing control of 1,4-dioxane impurity (โ‰ค10 ppm). PEG-based, so excluded from COSMOS/ECOCERT certified formulations. Penetration enhancement of co-formulants requires formulator caution but poses no consumer hazard at typical use levels.

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Concern Level: Low

Regulatory Flags

ethoxylated peg-derived 1,4-dioxane-risk penetration-enhancer solubilizer not-cosmos eu_children_restricted epa_safer_alternative ifra_fragrance fda_food_additive

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Polysorbate 20 safe in cosmetics?

Highly hydrophilic nonionic emulsifier and solubilizer (HLB 16.7) confirmed safe as used by CIR. Core ingredient in micellar waters with effective cleansing at very low concentrations (CMC 0.05โ€“0.1 mM). Ethoxylated compound requiring manufacturing control of 1,4-dioxane impurity (โ‰ค10 ppm). PEG-based, so excluded from COSMOS/ECOCERT certified formulations. Penetration enhancement of co-formulants requires formulator caution but poses no consumer hazard at typical use levels. The EU classifies Polysorbate 20 as "permitted". Safety rating: GOOD. 9 toxicological study endpoint(s) are available in our database.

Is Polysorbate 20 allowed in the EU?

Polysorbate 20 EU regulatory status: permitted. Maximum allowed concentration: 1,4-dioxane process impurity โ‰ค10 ppm per EU GMP guidance. This is based on EU Regulation 1223/2009 and its amendments.

What does Polysorbate 20 do in cosmetics?

Polysorbate 20 functions as: Solubilizer; emulsifier; surfactant; cleansing agent. It is classified as a Emulsifier in our database. CAS number: 9005-64-5.

What is the Margin of Safety for Polysorbate 20?

adequate The Margin of Safety (MoS) is calculated using SCCS methodology. A MoS above 100 is generally considered safe. Use the MoS Calculator tool to calculate MoS for your specific formulation and product category.

What is the NOAEL for Polysorbate 20?

The NOAEL (No Observed Adverse Effect Level) for Polysorbate 20 is 25000 mg/kg bw/day based on a Subchronic study via oral route in rat. A total of 9 study endpoints are available. Source: COSMOS_DB.

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