Good Active Ingredient Dermal Penetration

Asiatic Acid

INCI: ASIATIC ACID

CAS Number
464-92-6
Function
skin-conditioning
Safety Rating
GOOD

Regulatory Status

๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ EU Status permitted
๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ US Status permitted
US Notes No FDA restrictions on cosmetic use of asiatic acid. Not classified as an OTC monograph ingredient; not a UV filter. CIR Expert Panel (2015 tentative report) reviewed 9 Centella asiatica-derived ingredients but did not individually assess asiatic acid as a standalone INCI. The Panel concluded insufficient data were available for most Centella-derived extracts to support a safety determination. No VCRP-specific usage concentration data for isolated asiatic acid was identified. No CIR final opinion for the isolated ingredient exists; ingredient remains without a standalone US CIR safety determination.

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Safety Data

Margin of Safety (MoS)
not established
Dermal Absorption
low
Sensitization
low

Calculate MoS for your specific formulation with the MoS Calculator.

Dermal Penetration Profile

Skin absorption and penetration characteristics of Asiatic Acid, relevant to systemic exposure and MoS calculations.

Absorption %
4-10%
Penetration Level
stratum-corneum
Penetration Depth
stratum corneum/epidermis
Molecular Weight
488.7 Da
Log P
5.5
Systemic Absorption
minimal
Topical Bioavailability
2-8%
Safety Margin Factor
low
Vehicle Dependent
Yes โ€” absorption varies by formulation

Source: Molecules 2012

Expert Verdict

CAS 464-92-6 | EC 482-720-9 / 610-307-7. EU status: Permitted โ€” not listed in Annex II (prohibited), Annex III (restricted), Annex V (preservatives), or Annex VI (UV filters) of EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. Approved in CosIng with functions Skin Conditioning and Stabilising; no concentration limits specified. No dedicated SCCS opinion exists for the isolated ingredient. CIR 2015 tentative report assessed 9 Centella asiatica-derived ingredients โ€” asiatic acid was not individually reviewed as a standalone INCI; CIR found insufficient data for most Centella-derived extracts. Genotoxicity: negative in Ames test (TA98, TA100, +/-S9), chromosomal aberration assay, and sister chromatid exchange assay. Well-tolerated cica bioactive with strong efficacy profile (collagen I synthesis, GAG production, wound healing, anti-scar via PPAR-gamma). Key data gaps are dermal absorption characterisation and absence of a standalone SCCS or CIR safety opinion.

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Concern Level: Low

Regulatory Flags

no-sccs-opinion cir-insufficient-data poor-dermal-absorption weak-sensitizer data-gap-absorption no-mos-calculation oral-hepatotoxicity-reports reproductive-toxicity-oral-extract

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Asiatic Acid safe in cosmetics?

CAS 464-92-6 | EC 482-720-9 / 610-307-7. EU status: Permitted โ€” not listed in Annex II (prohibited), Annex III (restricted), Annex V (preservatives), or Annex VI (UV filters) of EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. Approved in CosIng with functions Skin Conditioning and Stabilising; no concentration limits specified. No dedicated SCCS opinion exists for the isolated ingredient. CIR 2015 tentative report assessed 9 Centella asiatica-derived ingredients โ€” asiatic acid was not individually reviewed as a standalone INCI; CIR found insufficient data for most Centella-derived extracts. Genotoxicity: negative in Ames test (TA98, TA100, +/-S9), chromosomal aberration assay, and sister chromatid exchange assay. Well-tolerated cica bioactive with strong efficacy profile (collagen I synthesis, GAG production, wound healing, anti-scar via PPAR-gamma). Key data gaps are dermal absorption characterisation and absence of a standalone SCCS or CIR safety opinion. The EU classifies Asiatic Acid as "permitted". Safety rating: GOOD.

Is Asiatic Acid allowed in the EU?

Asiatic Acid EU regulatory status: permitted. This is based on EU Regulation 1223/2009 and its amendments.

What does Asiatic Acid do in cosmetics?

Asiatic Acid functions as: skin-conditioning. It is classified as a Active Ingredient in our database. CAS number: 464-92-6.

What is the Margin of Safety for Asiatic Acid?

not established The Margin of Safety (MoS) is calculated using SCCS methodology. A MoS above 100 is generally considered safe. Use the MoS Calculator tool to calculate MoS for your specific formulation and product category.

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