Good Active Ingredient Dermal Penetration

Alpha-Arbutin

INCI: ALPHA-ARBUTIN

CAS Number
84380-01-8
Function
Tyrosinase inhibitor; synthetic alpha-enantiomer of arbutin; approximately 10x stronger tyrosinase inhibition than beta-arbutin at equivalent concentrations; reversible competitive inhibition at L-DOPA binding site
Safety Rating
GOOD

Regulatory Status

๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ EU Status restricted
EU Max Conc. 2% face / 0.5% body
๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ US Status permitted
US Notes No specific US limit. HQ not GRASE per 21 CFR 310.545.

For full compliance data across 55 jurisdictions, use the Substance Compliance tool.

Safety Data

Margin of Safety (MoS)
adequate
Dermal Absorption
moderate
Sensitization
none

Calculate MoS for your specific formulation with the MoS Calculator.

SCCS NOAEL Values

NOAEL/LOAEL values cited in official SCCS opinions for Alpha-Arbutin.

NOAEL LOAEL Route Species Study DA% (SCCS) Opinion
200 mg/kg/day - Oral Rat Subchronic (90-day) (90 days) 10 SCCS/1642/22 (2023)

Dermal Penetration Profile

Skin absorption and penetration characteristics of Alpha-Arbutin, relevant to systemic exposure and MoS calculations.

Absorption %
8-15%
Penetration Level
epidermis
Penetration Depth
epidermis
Molecular Weight
272.3 Da
Log P
-1.42
Systemic Absorption
minimal
Topical Bioavailability
5-12%
Safety Margin Factor
moderate
Vehicle Dependent
Yes โ€” absorption varies by formulation

Source: J Dermatol Sci 2005

Expert Verdict

EU 2024/996 Annex III: 2% face, 0.5% body. 10x more potent tyrosinase inhibitor than beta-arbutin per SCCS/1550/15. HQ release via enzymatic/acid/UV hydrolysis with HQ contamination limit <1 ppm. UK has NOT adopted 2024/996. Japan and Korea approved as whitening active. Synthetic origin via enzymatic transglycosylation. Brightening permitted globally; whitening classified as functional cosmetic in Asia.

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Concern Level: Low

Regulatory Flags

eu-annex-iii-2024-996 alpha-arbutin-2pct-face-0.5pct-body sccs-1550-15 hq-release-concern uk-divergence-not-adopted japan-quasi-drug-whitening korea-functional-cosmetic-whitening 10x-more-potent-than-beta

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Alpha-Arbutin safe in cosmetics?

EU 2024/996 Annex III: 2% face, 0.5% body. 10x more potent tyrosinase inhibitor than beta-arbutin per SCCS/1550/15. HQ release via enzymatic/acid/UV hydrolysis with HQ contamination limit <1 ppm. UK has NOT adopted 2024/996. Japan and Korea approved as whitening active. Synthetic origin via enzymatic transglycosylation. Brightening permitted globally; whitening classified as functional cosmetic in Asia. The EU classifies Alpha-Arbutin as "restricted". Safety rating: GOOD.

Is Alpha-Arbutin allowed in the EU?

Alpha-Arbutin EU regulatory status: restricted. Maximum allowed concentration: 2% face / 0.5% body. This is based on EU Regulation 1223/2009 and its amendments.

What does Alpha-Arbutin do in cosmetics?

Alpha-Arbutin functions as: Tyrosinase inhibitor; synthetic alpha-enantiomer of arbutin; approximately 10x stronger tyrosinase inhibition than beta-arbutin at equivalent concentrations; reversible competitive inhibition at L-DOPA binding site. It is classified as a Active Ingredient in our database. CAS number: 84380-01-8.

What is the Margin of Safety for Alpha-Arbutin?

adequate The Margin of Safety (MoS) is calculated using SCCS methodology. A MoS above 100 is generally considered safe. Use the MoS Calculator tool to calculate MoS for your specific formulation and product category.

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