Excellent Active Ingredient

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

INCI: STEARYL GLYCYRRHETINATE

CAS Number
13832-70-7
Function
anti-inflammatory, skin-conditioning
Safety Rating
EXCELLENT

Regulatory Status

🇪🇺 EU Status permitted
🇺🇸 US Status permitted
US Notes Permitted; no US concentration cap. Ester of stearyl alcohol and glycyrrhetinic acid (licorice root). Effective at 0.2–1% in leave-on formulations as anti-inflammatory and steroid-sparing cosmetic active.

For full compliance data across 55 jurisdictions, use the Substance Compliance tool.

Safety Data

Margin of Safety (MoS)
adequate
Dermal Absorption
high
Sensitization
none

Calculate MoS for your specific formulation with the MoS Calculator.

Expert Verdict

Excellent corticosteroid-mimetic anti-inflammatory without steroid side effects. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate (licorice root-derived) inhibits 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (11β-HSD), amplifying local cortisol activity at the site of application, and inhibits phospholipase A2, blocking arachidonic acid release from membrane phospholipids. This dual mechanism delivers corticosteroid-mimetic anti-inflammatory potency without skin-thinning, telangiectasia, and adrenal suppression risks of topical steroids. The stearyl ester form provides superior skin penetration vs water-soluble glycyrrhizin. Effective at 0.2–1% in leave-on formulations. Not restricted in EU or US.

⚠️
Concern Level: None

Regulatory Flags

active anti-inflammatory 11β-hsd-inhibitor phospholipase-a2-inhibitor corticosteroid-mimetic steroid-sparing licorice-derived botanical rosacea-safe atopic-dermatitis-target sensitive-skin 0.2-1pct-effective-dose lipophilic-ester

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate safe in cosmetics?

Excellent corticosteroid-mimetic anti-inflammatory without steroid side effects. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate (licorice root-derived) inhibits 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (11β-HSD), amplifying local cortisol activity at the site of application, and inhibits phospholipase A2, blocking arachidonic acid release from membrane phospholipids. This dual mechanism delivers corticosteroid-mimetic anti-inflammatory potency without skin-thinning, telangiectasia, and adrenal suppression risks of topical steroids. The stearyl ester form provides superior skin penetration vs water-soluble glycyrrhizin. Effective at 0.2–1% in leave-on formulations. Not restricted in EU or US. The EU classifies Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate as "permitted". Safety rating: EXCELLENT.

Is Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate allowed in the EU?

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate EU regulatory status: permitted. This is based on EU Regulation 1223/2009 and its amendments.

What does Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate do in cosmetics?

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate functions as: anti-inflammatory, skin-conditioning. It is classified as a Active Ingredient in our database. CAS number: 13832-70-7.

What is the Margin of Safety for Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate?

adequate The Margin of Safety (MoS) is calculated using SCCS methodology. A MoS above 100 is generally considered safe. Use the MoS Calculator tool to calculate MoS for your specific formulation and product category.

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