Regulatory Status
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Safety Data
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Dermal Penetration Profile
Skin absorption and penetration characteristics of Melatonin, relevant to systemic exposure and MoS calculations.
Source: J Pineal Res 2013
Expert Verdict
Melatonin is a compelling dual anti-pollution and circadian repair active. In human skin explant studies, a combination of melatonin + carnosine + Helichrysum italicum extract reduced AhR expression by 96% following PAH and heavy metal mixture exposure — the most potent AhR downregulation result in the literature. AhR is the central mediator of pollution-induced skin damage; suppressing it by 96% would theoretically prevent the entire downstream cascade (CYP1A1, MMP-1, IL-6/IL-8). Additionally, evening blue light exposure suppresses melatonin-mediated nocturnal skin repair; topical melatonin in night creams can partially restore this repair signaling independently of endogenous systemic suppression. Best positioned in anti-pollution night creams at 0.1–0.5%, combined with carnosine and a botanical AhR antagonist.
Regulatory Flags
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Melatonin safe in cosmetics?
Melatonin is a compelling dual anti-pollution and circadian repair active. In human skin explant studies, a combination of melatonin + carnosine + Helichrysum italicum extract reduced AhR expression by 96% following PAH and heavy metal mixture exposure — the most potent AhR downregulation result in the literature. AhR is the central mediator of pollution-induced skin damage; suppressing it by 96% would theoretically prevent the entire downstream cascade (CYP1A1, MMP-1, IL-6/IL-8). Additionally, evening blue light exposure suppresses melatonin-mediated nocturnal skin repair; topical melatonin in night creams can partially restore this repair signaling independently of endogenous systemic suppression. Best positioned in anti-pollution night creams at 0.1–0.5%, combined with carnosine and a botanical AhR antagonist. The EU classifies Melatonin as "permitted". Safety rating: EXCELLENT.
Is Melatonin allowed in the EU?
Melatonin EU regulatory status: permitted. This is based on EU Regulation 1223/2009 and its amendments.
What does Melatonin do in cosmetics?
Melatonin functions as: Antioxidant; AhR pathway modulator; anti-pollution active; circadian repair regulator; anti-inflammatory; indole hormone/neurohormone; night repair active; photoprotective antioxidant. It is classified as a Active Ingredient in our database. CAS number: 73-31-4.
What is the Margin of Safety for Melatonin?
adequate The Margin of Safety (MoS) is calculated using SCCS methodology. A MoS above 100 is generally considered safe. Use the MoS Calculator tool to calculate MoS for your specific formulation and product category.
Compliance Tools
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Related Ingredients
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