Excellent Active Ingredient Dermal Penetration

Azelaic Acid

INCI: AZELAIC ACID

CAS Number
123-99-9
Function
Reversible tyrosinase inhibitor; selective antiproliferative and cytotoxic agent against abnormal hyperactive melanocytes while sparing normally pigmented cells; anti-inflammatory; anti-keratinization; antibacterial (P. acnes)
Safety Rating
EXCELLENT

Regulatory Status

๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ EU Status permitted
๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ US Status permitted
US Notes Prescription drug at 15% (Finacea โ€” rosacea) and 20% (Azelex โ€” acne/hyperpigmentation). Cosmetic use at 10% or less permitted under FD&C Act without drug classification. Drug claims (treating rosacea, acne) at any concentration trigger FDA drug classification regardless of concentration.

For full compliance data across 55 jurisdictions, use the Substance Compliance tool.

Safety Data

Margin of Safety (MoS)
adequate
Dermal Absorption
high
Sensitization
none

Calculate MoS for your specific formulation with the MoS Calculator.

Dermal Penetration Profile

Skin absorption and penetration characteristics of Azelaic Acid, relevant to systemic exposure and MoS calculations.

Absorption %
10-18%
Penetration Level
epidermis
Penetration Depth
epidermis
Molecular Weight
188.2 Da
Log P
1.57
Systemic Absorption
minimal
Topical Bioavailability
6-14%
Safety Margin Factor
moderate
Vehicle Dependent
Yes โ€” absorption varies by formulation

Source: J Eur Acad Dermatol 2017

Expert Verdict

Highly versatile depigmenting active with selective targeting of hyperactive abnormal melanocytes while sparing normally pigmented cells, eliminating leukoderma risk. Dual action of reversible tyrosinase inhibition and anti-inflammatory PGE2 reduction is particularly valuable for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and darker skin types. US Rx at 15-20%; cosmetic brightening at 10% or less is effective and unrestricted in both EU and US. Endogenous naturally occurring compound with excellent safety profile.

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Concern Level: None

Regulatory Flags

tyrosinase-inhibitor brightening selective-melanocyte-targeting no-leukoderma-risk anti-inflammatory pge2-reduction antibacterial pih melasma fitzpatrick-iv-vi-preferred rx-15pct-finacea rx-20pct-azelex cosmetic-to-10pct natural-origin endogenous eu-unrestricted no-us-cosmetic-restriction endocrine_disruptor

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Azelaic Acid safe in cosmetics?

Highly versatile depigmenting active with selective targeting of hyperactive abnormal melanocytes while sparing normally pigmented cells, eliminating leukoderma risk. Dual action of reversible tyrosinase inhibition and anti-inflammatory PGE2 reduction is particularly valuable for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and darker skin types. US Rx at 15-20%; cosmetic brightening at 10% or less is effective and unrestricted in both EU and US. Endogenous naturally occurring compound with excellent safety profile. The EU classifies Azelaic Acid as "permitted". Safety rating: EXCELLENT.

Is Azelaic Acid allowed in the EU?

Azelaic Acid EU regulatory status: permitted. This is based on EU Regulation 1223/2009 and its amendments.

What does Azelaic Acid do in cosmetics?

Azelaic Acid functions as: Reversible tyrosinase inhibitor; selective antiproliferative and cytotoxic agent against abnormal hyperactive melanocytes while sparing normally pigmented cells; anti-inflammatory; anti-keratinization; antibacterial (P. acnes). It is classified as a Active Ingredient in our database. CAS number: 123-99-9.

What is the Margin of Safety for Azelaic Acid?

adequate The Margin of Safety (MoS) is calculated using SCCS methodology. A MoS above 100 is generally considered safe. Use the MoS Calculator tool to calculate MoS for your specific formulation and product category.

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